Chianti Rùfina DOCG | Château Monty

Chianti Rùfina is the most historic yet smallest region within the wider Chianti DOCG. The Rufina region is located north-east of Florence, and north of the rest of Chianti, close to the foothills of the Tuscan-RomaApennines which divide Tuscany from Emilia Romagna. This and the presence of the Sieve river ensure cool nights and slow ripening. Tuscany’s coolest red wines, or the coolest red wines in Tuscany I say.

Background: Evidence of wine growing here dates to the early 15th century. The region is located 24km north-east of the city of Florence, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines. The Rufina region was recognised a superior vineyard terroir by Cosimo III de’Medici’s grand ducal edict of 1716, albeit at that time it was named after the Albizi family’s Pomino estate. This now has its own DOC (see Pomino DOC). Cosimo III’s edict deemed four production areas as being of superior potential, the other three being what are now Chianti Classico DOCG, Carmignano DOCG, and Valdarno di Sopra DOC.

DOC & DOCG status: A Ministerial Decree of 1932 was the first to define the Chianti area’s wine zones, including that of Rùfina. In 1967 Rùfina became a DOC and in 1984 it became a DOCG. Rùfina is probably the only Chianti DOCG sub-zone (‘sottozona’), except for Chianti Classico DOCG, which deserves its DOCG classification. One reason is it has no denomination of greater prestige within its boundaries, as for example does Chianti Colli Senesi [with Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG], (Nicolas Belfrage MW: 2003, p.96-7).

Markets: Traditionally the Rufinà wines were sold to the ‘mescite‘ (bars serving wine) and ‘trattorie‘ of Florence.

Reputation: Chianti Rùfina DOCG ranks alongside or even above Chianti Montespertoli DOCG as the most qualitatively renowned of the Chianti DOCG red wines. Rufinà produces some of Italy’s longest-lived Sangiovese-based wines. Despite this Ian d’Agata pointed out to me ‘Chianti Rùfina DOCG remains somewhat under the Tuscan radar because it did not have the benefit of 20-30 noble families making notable wines for 40-odd years. Andrea Zanfei of Fattoria Cerreto Libri is quoted by Louis Dressner as saying ‘because there are so few producers in Rufinà (around 20), DOC regulations are less exposed to the flexibility of Chianti Classico, and the region has remained more rooted in tradition.’

A second fiddle to Chianti Classico?: Some producers worry Chianti Rùfina will always play second fiddle to Chianti Classico DOCG, and that it is simply not perceived by consumers as at a comparable quality level. Many are agitating for greater independence, proposing that the word Chianti be dropped altogether, so that Rùfina can stand alone. This also might help end the confusion with Ruffino, described by Stephen Brook as “a distinguished producer, but not a region –though it does happen to have a winery in Rùfina.”

Wine styles: Rufinà is still seen as intractable but is not in my experience. I see it as luminous and silky-crunchy with no lack of breadth. Andrea Zanfei of Fattoria Cerreto Libri is quoted by Louis Dressner as saying ‘because there are so few producers in Rufinà (around 20), DOC regulations are less exposed to the flexibility of Chianti Classico, and the region has remained more rooted in tradition.’

Rufinà’s point of difference: Rùfina differs from its fellow Chianti DOCG regions – and from Chianti Classico DOCG – by virtue of being deeper inland and in the foothills of the Apennine mountains which form central Italy’s spine and divide Tuscany from Emilia Romagna, almost up to the Mugello valley. The delimited Rùfina zone runs along the summit of Mount Senario from Dicomano (in the northeast), Londa, Rufinà (between Dicomano and Pontassieve), Pelago (to the south-east) and Pontassieve (in the south-west). These all lie on the hills east of Florence, in three valleys. The first extends along the Sieve river, the second extends along the Pelago Valley, and the third lies west of Pontassieve.

Terroir: The Chianti Rufina region lies in the Sieve River valley in the Province of Florence (Firenze) in Tuscany. The region is named after Rùfina, a village in the Valdisieve or Sieve valley, the Sieve river being a tributary of the Arno river. Chianti Rufinà gained DOCG status in 2007, having been a DOC from 1967.

Altitude: Ian D’Agata (2019, p.284) points out that although the Rùfina region describes itself as ‘the highest of all Chiantis’ (‘il più alto fra I Chianti’) average altitudes are roughly 200-500 metres (656-1,640 feet) above sea level, which Ian says is ‘not that high’. However, some Rufinà vineyards are in mountainous environments at up to 700 metres (2,296 feet) above sea level, near Dicomano in northern Rùfina, for example, the Chianti DOCG’s highest, so Rùfina’s claim to be ‘the highest of all Chiantis’ is not inaccurate. (The production specification (art. 4) still provides for a maximum altitude of 700 m above sea level for the location of the vineyards).

The Pelago area is said to be a notably warm terroir (Selvapiana, Frescobaldi). See also the Pomino DOC, in the hamlet of Pomino, a higher area which Rùfina almost totally surrounds but is considered a separate area altogether (D’Agata: 2019, p.284).

Geography: Rùfina occupies the north eastern part of the much wider Chianti DOCG zone, and is 12 miles (20km) north-east of the Italian city of Florence and thus north too of the Chianti Classico DOCG. The production area comprises three valleys in the Apennine foothills in the province of Florence, 13 miles north east of Florence itself.

Communes: Dicomano (northeast). | Londa. | Pelago (south-east) | Pontassieve southwest). | Rufinà.

Size: The Chianti Rùfina DOCG zone is the smallest in extent of the seven denominations within the wider Chianti DOCG. It occupies 12,483ha of land of which around 750ha of registered vineyards to produce Chianti Rufinà DOCG with room for an additional 300ha.

Topography: Rufina’s highest vineyards around Dicomano in the north of the region reach around 2,300 feet (700m), the Chianti DOCG’s highest. The Rùfina region stretches along the summit of Monte Senario from Dicomano in the north-east to Pontassieve in the southwest (D’Agata: 2019, p.284). Rùfina differs from the other Chianti DOCG and Chianti Classico DOCG regions by being deeper inland. This brings the its vineyards much closer to the Apennine mountain range, the chain of mountains that forms central Italy’s spine. Here it is the Tuscan-Romagnoli Apenninesdividing Tuscany from Emilia Romagna, almost up to the Mugello valley.

The Rùfina territory is at an average of 350 meters above sea level, close to the mountains but also to the Arno and Sieve rivers, leading to great ventilation and humidity and therefore many thermal excursions. These characteristics give the wines greater primary aromas.

The mountains and the presence of the Sieve river and its merger with the larger Arno river combine to moderate summer heat, creating relatively low mean temperatures and noticeable diurnal temperature differences allied to humidity at both dawn and dusk. This slows ripening (ripening here lags behind Chianti Classico DOCG) and provides well-balanced and ripe grapes. This gives the potential for wines whose poise is due to the combination of natural freshness (notable acidity levels), smoothness (elegant tannins), aroma (from a luminous landscape) and acidity for longevity. Federico Giuntini of Selvapiana told me ‘we are located inland, and experience a more northerly climate [compared to Chianti Classico DOCG] with a very slow ripening season for well-balanced, ripe grapes. We also have very good acidity, good sugar levels [meaning not excessive], and ripe tannins. Compared to the rest of Chianti [see Chianti Putto], these are more a familiar style wine, more elegant, with finesse, and very supple, ripe tannins.’

Other elements: The sun exposure to the South South-West on soils at an altitude of up to 400 meters above sea level allow the grapes to reach an optimal but not excessive ripening; the microclimate with high daytime temperatures and cool summer nights, which contributes to maintaining the aromatic notes and developing strong acidity.

Rùfina six sub-regions: The result is Rùfina has six wine sub-regions as defined by Ian d’Agata (2019, p.285-6): the area from Dicomano to Colognole (See Dicomano to Colognole); Londa; the central part of the Sieve Valley–right bank and left bank; the area from Pontassieve to Pelago; and Pian del Molino and Santa Brigida.

Geology: Regarding the geological conformation of the soil this is composed of limestone, marl and alberese. The region lies on a Miocene pre-Apennine ridge that originates in the north, from the Mugello area and descends to Rùfina itself.

Soils: Ian D’Agata (2019, p.284) cites limestone (eg. in the area extending south to Dicomano), sand, galestro–alberese, marl, marly clays (more typical of the south, water retentive yellow-brown alkaline soils hence vigorous vines), marly silt and chaotic soils (west of Pontassieve and Tigliano, very varied in composition), and differentiated soils (Molino del Piano and Santa Brigida).

Rùfina s sub-zones: Rùfina’s three valleys create six wine growing areas: 1. Along the Sieve river. 2. Along the Pelago in the southeast of the denomination. 3. To the west of Pontassieve. The area from Dicomano to Colognole (See Dicomano to Colognole); Londa; the central part of the Sieve Valley–right bank and left bank; the area from Pontassieve to Pelago; and Pian del Molino and Santa Brigida.

Current research: This concerns the acquisition of organoleptic data relating to what if any differences exist between the wines of the left bank of the Sieve and those of the right bank. The Zoning research conducted by Prof. Scienza is also available in English on the Consortium website.

Wine style: ‘Wine lovers should not forget about Chianti Rùfina. For the most part a high-altitude, cool-climate viticultural area, its Chiantis are some of the most perfumed, flinty and refined of all,’ (Ian D’Agata, Vinous, Sept 2014). The region can produce ‘very fine wines blessed by lacy acidity and refined texture that age extremely well’ says Ian D’Agata, Native wine grapes 2014, p.434).

Average annual production: About 27,000hl which corresponds to 3,500,000 bottles. Chianti Rùfina DOCG has just over 20 wine producers, the largest of which by far is Castello Nipozzano owned by Marchesi Frescobaldi. 2016Federico Giuntini of Fattoria Selvapiana told me that Rùfina’s 20 or so producers made around 4% of the total output for Chianti DOCG, and that despite its small size, it is the third most productive area in the Chianti DOCG after Chianti Classico DOCG and Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG.

Wines: Chianti Rùfina DOCG and Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva reds are the region’s flagship wines based on 70-100% Sangiovese. Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva ages 24 months, oak is optional. Chianti Rùfina’s two dried grape sweet wines comprise the white Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina DOC and the reddish Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina Occhio di Pernice DOC or ‘partridge eye’ made from 50-100% Sangiovese.

Wine styles: Federico Giuntini of Fattoria Selvapiana told me in 2016 that ‘Rùfina as a Chianti zone is known for making very aromatic, elegant wines. This has to do with where we are. We are in a valley and close to the [Apennine] mountains, so we have very dramatic temperatures between night and day, meaning the grapes ripen very slowly. They keep all their freshness, that’s why the wines are so aromatic, floral, with open fruit, ripe fruit, but not too ripe. Always on the fresh side.’ Mauricio Castelli (9th July 2021 at Col di Lamo) told me ‘broadly speaking Chianti Rùfina DOCG is lighter and less structured compared to Chianti Classico DOCG mainly due to its location in a cool lee between the Tuscan Apennines and the Arno river. This makes it subject to cool nights which enhances aromas and inner freshness. It also means the wines are never monolithic. It is a versatile wine in the sense that it can be ready to drink a year or so after the harvest but develops well in bottle.’

The Single-site Sangiovese initiative called Terraelectae is a collective mark created and owned by the producer members of the Consorzio Chianti Rufina. The project was launched in 2020 and aimed at identifying each Rùfina producer’s finest 100% single terroir Sangiovese vineyard, with dedicated single-vineyard labels for the resulting wines. These would serve as ambassadors of the highest expressions of the Rufinà region.

The Rufina producers are exploring ways to achieve a more precise representation of their territorial uniqueness. The Chianti DOCG universe is vast and variegated, embracing growing areas very different from each other. The tendency in today’s wine-production culture, however, is to precisely understand and express the relationship between an individual grape variety and its particular terroir, and the principle of source terroir takes precedence over all other regulatory or procedural norms in the various Production Codes. The Rufina-produced Sangioveses are different from those of Pisa, of Siena, and from those of the Arezzo valleys. In order to define the profile classic to the Rufina Sangiovese, the producers belonging to the Consorzio decided to select their finest-quality vineyards exclusively dedicated to Sangiovese, just one vineyard per winery, and to produce a wine named after that vineyard, all utilising the same winemaking protocol, and finally to give it a voluntary collective mark, Terraelectae.

The Terraelectae mark requires no change to the Chianti Rufina Production Code. The Chianti DOCG covers a wide, quite diverse area, and any modification of the Code would require a lengthy, complex process, which would yield regulations all but identical to the current ones, amounting to a waste of time and energy.the number of bottles will rise to 50-55 thousand.

Will there be a vine register for Terraelectae? The wine must be made exclusively from grapes grown in the Chianti Rufina DOCG growing area, in particular from estate vineyards of the producing wineries, or from vineyards leased by and directly managed by them, and the label must bear the name of that vineyard. The wine must be traceable, and vinification and storage of the wine must be in separate containers; and such vineyard designation, followed by the place name or traditional name, must be listed on the grape report, both in the official registers, in the accompanying documentation. In sum, all the terms pertaining to Terrelectae are contained in the Production code: regarding designation of the source vineyard, no additional of separate register is needed different from vineyard reports currently required by law.

What then is Terrelectae? Italian wine-production regulations allow for the appearance on the bottle front label of a voluntary collective (trade) (mark. Terrelectae is precisely a voluntary collective mark whose usage regulations are adhered to by numerous or all the members of the Consorzio Chianti Rufina, the only parties possessing the rights of adherence.

Terrelectae’s objectives: The mark has been designed with the objective of furthering ultra-premium wine production, which in turn will increase the added value of each participant winery and of the growing area as a whole. The longevity classic to Rufina wines, long amply demonstrated, marks these wines as eminently collectible and as reliable investments. These wines should be proposed to the market at a commensurate price level.

How is the Terrelectae mark to be used: The Terrelectae mark may be used by each producer for only one category of wine, and that wine must be in conformity with the “Disciplinare di produzione di vini a denominazione di origine controllata e garantita Chianti della sottozona e tipologia RUFINA (Production Code for Chianti DOCG wines in the Rufina subzone and typology).” The wine must be made exclusively from grapes grown in the Chianti Rufina DOCG growing area, in particular from estate vineyards of the producing wineries, or from vineyards leased by and directly managed by them; must be composed of 100% Sangiovese grapes; and must bear the name of the vineyard on the front label. The wine must be traceable, and vinification and storage of the wine must be in separate containers; and such vineyard designation, followed by the place name or traditional name, must be listed on the grape report, both in the official registers, in the accompanying documentation.

Will Terrelectae wines have special production parameters or a special aging regime? Terrelectae wines must belong to the Riserva category, be made in accord with the relevant sections of the Production Code, and must, in addition: have a maximum production of 70 q/ha; Have an alcohol content not less than 12.5% vol.; • Be aged a minimum of 30 months, of which 18 in oak and at least 6 months in bottle; • May not be served in carafe- or decanter-style containers.

What is the relationship of the Terrelectae mark with the Gran Selezione category of Chianti Classico? Use of the Terrelectae mark is an alternative to utilisation of the Gran Selezione designation, inasmuch as the former reflects the selection of, and a winemaking philosophy based upon, a specific vineyard. Gran Selezione is made from grapes grown in estate vineyards, but the various lots of wine utilised may be sourced from various vineyards, and thus the resultant wine is quite distinct from the concept of cru on which the Terraelectae project is based.

What is the relationship with additional geographic references?: The concept is quite different. Additional geographic references or units have a collective reach, since they can refer to more than one producer. The cru concept, no the contrary, singles out one specific place of grape-growing, where certain factors, natural or not, confer on the wine unique and individual characteristics different from those of other wines grown in nearby places or terroirs. Each individual producer identifies and selects his own specific vineyard.

Is there a list of sites or vineyards related to the Terrelectae mark?: When a producer requests utilisation of the Terraelectae mark and submits to the Consorzio, along with his or her formal request, the information sheet on his or her Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigna, this request is registered and receives full formal consideration by the Consorzio, which is owner of the mark.

The first vintage to be marketed under the Terraelectae label is the 2018, produced by nine estates: Castello del Trebbio, Colognole, Fattoria Lavacchio, Frascole, Grignano, I Veroni, Marchesi Frescobaldi, Marchesi Gondi, and Villa Travignoli.

Vintages: See here.

Wineries

Certified organic, Biodynamic practices: Voltumna.

Bibliography

Bill Nesto MW & Frances Di Savino, Chianti Classico, the Search for Tuscany’s Noblest Wine, (University of California Press, 2016).

Burton Anderson, The Wine Atlas of Italy (Mitchell Beazley, London, 1990).

David Gleave, The Wines of Italy (Salamander Books, London, 1989).

Daniel Thomases and David Gleave MW, Oxford Companion to Wine 3rd edition ed. Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW (Oxford University Press, 2006).

Dr Ian d’Agata, Italy’s Native Wine Grapes (University of California Press, 2014).

Dr Ian d’Agata, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs (University of California Press, 2019), p.284-286.

Dr Ian D’Agata, Tuscany Part 1: Chianti, Vino Nobile and Supertuscans (Vinous, Sep 2014).

Louis Dressner, ‘Chianti Rufinà from Cerreto Libri‘.

Nicolas Belfrage MW, From Brunello to Zibibbo–The Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy (2nd edition, London, 2003).

Oz Clarke 2015, Oz Clarke Wine A-Z (Pavilion, 2015), p.85.

Stephen Brook, Decanter.com, 7th July 2010.

Contact

Website: www.chiantirufina.com/en

Website: www.consorziovinochianti.it/?lang=en

Consorzio Chianti Rufina

Villa di Poggio Reale – Viale Duca della Vittoria, 7

50068 RUFINA (FI)

Tel. +39 055 8399944

Mail. info@chiantirufina.com

Ufficio Stampa

Paolo Valdastri

3284603832

paolo@vietu.it

Consorzio Chianti Rufina

Villa di Poggio Reale – Viale Duca della Vittoria, 7

50068 Rufina (FI), Italy

Tel. +39 055 8399944

Mail. info@chiantirufina.com

Ufficio Stampa

Paolo Valdastri

Cell: 3284603832 | Email: paolo@vietu.it