Weingut Wieninger is a Biodynamic estate in Vienna (‘Wien’), the capital city of Austria and is run by Fritz Wieninger (Jnr). Like his mother Barbara, he studied at the Klosterneuberg wine school, and worked in California and Canada. His father (also called Fritz) came from a long line of vineyard owners in the Wienviertel region (Giles MacDonogh: 1997, p.16). To win critical approval Fritz (fils)  produced oak-aged Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The estate is also a Heuriger (the Heurige is in Stammersdorf). 

Fritz Wieninger: Born 1966 in Vienna. 1980-85 Studies HLBA Viticulture and Pomology, Klosterneuberg. 1986-87 Assistant winemaker in St Helena winery, St Helena (Napa) California. In 1987 he took over the family winery. 1990 Voted Winemaker of the Year. 1991 first export to Japan. 1995 first export to USA. 2002 Founding of tu felix austria. 2006 Founding of WienWein [‘Vienna Wine’). 2007 Founding member of Premium Estates of Austria. 2008 Joins respekt-BIODYN (see below). 2009 Chairman of the Wiener Gemischter Satz association. Married to Lissi. Children are Sophie (2002), Katharina (2004) and Maximilian Fritz (2005).

Biodynamic certification: Member of respekt-BIODYN since 2008.

Labelling: Erste Lagen (premier cru) wines are distinguished by a special logo.

Vineyards: ‘A diverse range of vineyards within a limited area describes the Vienna wine region’, says Fritz Wieninger who cultivates vineyards on the Bisamberg and Nussberg hills, which are separated by the Danube river, thus each has its own unique soil and climate.

Bisamberg: Geologically, the Bisamberg consists of light, sandy loess soil that has excellent water permeability. The subsoil is extremely calcareous. Compared to the Nussberg, the Bisamberg has an average of 20 percent less rain, and 20 percent more wind and sun. Typical wines from the Bisamberg are fruity, fragrant and, with their slightly higher acidity, exude a great deal of freshness. Light wines in particular develop extremely well; in the stronger range, the Chardonnays and all red wines are very expressive.

Nussberg: The Nussberg soil primarily features shell limestone (Muschelkalk)  and weathered limestone soils, with a subsoil of solid limestone rocks. Some of these rocks extend up to the surface. This ancient alpine bedrock, interspersed with quartz veins, was formed as a steep terrain by submarine landslides. The limestone content is extremely high. The clay content of the Nussberg is distinctly higher than that of the Bisamberg. Nussberg also has less wind, sun, and rain compared to the Bisamberg. Nussberg’s heavy soil with a high limestone content give wines with a creamy texture, darker fruit tones, and moderate acidity.’ The Nussberg is ideal for growing all Gemischter Satz grape varieties, which include Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Traminer. The wines, mainly the stronger, robust versions, are certainly archetypal. Due to the heavier soil and the high lime content, the wines tend to have a creamy texture and dark fruit tones along with moderate acidity and a pronounced minerality.

Ried Falkenberg: 12.5ha in size of which Wieninger has 2.8ha. 228-270m. 8° slope. East-south-east facing. This vineyard lies on the Bisamberg, and its subsoil consists of Viennese sandstone with a surface covering of weathered sands resulting from marine deposits that had eroded over time. Loess plays a somewhat minor role on this high-lying eastern slope. The Ried, or cru, designation refer to the importance of birds in the area, particularly in connection with additional income for landowners – for example, bird-catching from an increasing bird population, and falcon breeding. The highly elegant Wiener Gmischter Satz DAC from Ried Falkenberg has been bottled since 2018 as a special edition for the JRE (Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe) association of young top chefs.

Ried Herrnholz: 13.6ha in size of which Wieninger has 1.64ha. 204-2250m. 1° slope. South-south-west facing. Just below and to the east of Ried Falkenberg is a plateau with a gentle, south-facing slope, where weathered marine deposits and the loess developed by drifting sand hold equal importance. The site takes its name from the neighbouring Herrnholz woods. The estate’s liveliest Grüner Veltliner as well as a striking tranche of aromatic Pinot Noir Select and Grand Select begin life in this particularly light soil.

Ried Kaasgraben: 3.2ha in size of which Wieninger has 0.68ha. 290-325m. 7° slope. South-east facing. This vineyard is located in the lower part of Sievering, where marine deposits are not abundant. The alpine bedrock with its mineral components give the soil special distinction. First mentioned in a document in 1281, the name Kaasgraben derives from the area’s once cloudy, iron rich springs, called Käswasser. The Grüner Veltliner from Ried Kaasgraben is highly expressive, strongly influenced by the minerality of the soil.

Ried Preussen: 12.2ha in size of which Wieninger has 1.11ha. 201-325m. 12° slope. South facing. The high quartz component of the sandstone along with the low lime content create a synergistic effect. The bedrock with its calcareous sandstone and interspersed with marine sediments, reaches up to the surface. The eponym of this site was the Crown Counsel, Heinrich Preussel, who possessed the Urfar, or landing port, of Nussdorf, as a fief from 1277 to 1288. Planted with Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, with both representing the top of their varieties at the top of the estate’s range.

Ried Rosengartel: 1.6ha in size of which Wieninger has 0.88ha. 232-262m. 12° slope. South-south-east facing. The bedrock with calcareous sandstone extends along the Rosengartel vineyard and even rises at points to the surface. It contains large amounts of weathered limestone sands, which were formed by the erosion of marine deposits. In addition to a high lime content, the soil also features significant quartz inclusions. The term “Rosengarten” was very popular in the Middle Ages, although it often had various other meanings besides that of “rose garden”. Today, the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC and Riesling from this fillet of the Nussberg are, for us, the embodiment of great Viennese wine.

Ried Ulm: This vineyard at the Nussberg is situated on an ancient marine terrace with a subsoil of Viennese sandstone. There is a high limestone content, and the surface is marked by marine deposits that had remained uneroded after the sea’s retreat. The name, according to history, refers to a donated tree nursery here back in 1348. In technical terms, “Olm” is a local word for a highly beneficial calcareous soil. Formerly known as Wiener Gemischter Satz Nussberg, this extremely individual wine is now designated as the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC Ried Ulm, and has long enjoyed cult status. Ried Ulm is 3.6 ha in size of which Wieninger has 3.6ha. 204-250m. 10-12° slope. South-south-east facing. This vineyard at the Nussberg is situated on an ancient marine terrace with a subsoil of Viennese sandstone. There is a high limestone content, and the surface is marked by marine deposits that had remained uneroded after the sea’s retreat. The name, according to history, refers to a donated tree nursery here back in 1348. In technical terms, “Olm” is a local word for a highly beneficial calcareous soil. Formerly known as Wiener Gemischter Satz Nussberg, this extremely individual wine is now designated as the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC Ried Ulm, and has long enjoyed cult status. Vintages: 2019.

White wines

Chardonnay Classic: It was this grape variety that brought Fritz Wieninger into the international limelight (Giles MacDonogh: 1997, p.16).  2013 The grapes for the Chardonnay Classic 2013 are almost solely from Vienna’s Bisamberg vineyards, though some come from a small single vineyard on the Nussberg. 

Chardonnay Select: MLF and new oak BF.

Chardonnay Grand Select: Less new oak and less MLF than the ‘Chardonnay Select’. | 2011 The grapes for the Chardonnay Grand Select 2011 came solely from the sites on the Wiener Bisamberg, specifically from the estate’s two oldest and best Chardonnay vineyards–Ried Breiten and Ried Kritschen. Both vineyards are approximately 40 years old and deliver only small yields. The soils consist of light, sandy loess over massive limestone. In the middle of October, the grapes were carefully picked by hand, with any botrytized grapes meticulously removed. The healthy grapes were gently destemmed and, after approximately 4 hours of soaking on the skins, were pressed very carefully with a pneumatic press. For the fermentation, the juice spent a short time in stainless steel tanks and was then transferred into 60%-new and 40%-used barriques. Barrels made solely of the best quality French oak were employed; the wood was not sawed, but split. Following the fermentation came malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity. The wine was stirred every 2 to 3 weeks to keep the yeast consistently and thoroughly in contact with the wine. After a total of 28 months, the wine was taken from the barrels and blended together. Then, after another 6 weeks, it was bottled without filtration. | 2014 Creamy but Burgundian (oak, MLF) so fat at end, but good and fresh at Tenuta Manincor 24th June 2016.

Chardonnay, Tribute: 2011 Too fat for me dinner at the Seehof Keller 23 June 2016.

Riesling, Wiener: 2013 From Vienna’s Bisamberg vineyards – this is because of the hail damage that hit the Nussberg. Leaving it with extremely low grape quantities.

Riesling, Nußberg | The grapes for the Riesling Nussberg are usually from the Preussen on the Nussberg, but because of the small yields and high ripeness, grapes from other vineyards on the Nussberg – the Obere Schoss and Purgstall – were also used. The soils are comprised of weathered shell limestone with a limestone bedrock; chunks of limestone can be found on the surface as well.

Wiener Gemischter Satz ÖTW Ulm: The grapes for the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC 2019 come from the Bisamberg and Nussberg vineyard sites. The Bisamberg consists of light, sandy loess over massive chunks of limestone; the Nussberg is comprised of limestone along with weathered shell limestone and a generous clay content. From the Ulm vineyard (see above).

Pink wines

Rosé Viennois: 2013 The Rosé Viennois was vinified with Fiona Figlmüller. The grapes all come from the Bisamberg vineyards and were hand-picked. For this cuvée which consists of Zweigelt, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, only the finest initial grape juice is used to achieve the most elegant and delicate aromas which are so characteristic for this wine.

Rosé de Pinot: 2012 The 20 year old vines grow on the sandy, loamy soil of the single vinyard “Breiten” on the sites of Bisamberg. The Danube river creates not only a special microclimate, but also separates geological zones. Also, the “Wienerwald”, or Vienna Woods, is an extensive part of the city, and in fact is responsible for climatic differences between the southern, northern and western parts of Vienna. The climate of Bisamberg is influenced by the Danube as well. The southern slopes enjoy continuously mild temperatures and plenty of late autumn sun. Because of the single position of Bisamberg, the climate around is very dry and windy.

Red wines

Blauer Portugieser: Made in a Beaujolais Nouveau style.

Pinot Noir Grand Select: 2011 Nearly all of the grapes for the Pinot Noir Grand Select 2011 were grown in vineyards on Vienna’s Bisamberg and in one vineyard on the Nussberg – with only the best grapes used. The constant wind and relatively low rainfall, plus the significant drainage capacity of the sandy soil, make the Wiener Bisamberg an outstanding red wine area. And the Nussberg can be quite impressive for Pinot as well. | 2013 Evolved new oak, sweet fruit, not my style but populist at Millésime Bio 2016. | 2013 Evolved colour. OK, but evolved, sweet oak, light fruit, OK if a bit fluid but I suppose good for a restaurant (Tenuta Manincor 24th June 2016).

Weingut Wieninger Ried Ulm – Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC Nussberg 2019: 14,5 % vol. alc.; 5,5 g/l acidity; 1,1 g/l residual sugar. Fritz Wieninger says of this wine ‘A rather mild winter turned into a normal spring, which corresponds to the long-term average. Flowering was a little earlier than usual and with very nice weather it passed quite quickly. Summer was on the warmer side, but there was regular rainfall, which contributed very well to the supply of the vines. These rains kept cooling off, which made the summer not as hot as it felt. In the second week of September, the harvest began with the earlier varieties and the lighter wines. Quantities were be less than expected, quality well above average. The acid values led to a wonderfully aromatic vintage with a lot of liveliness and finesse, which seamlessly connects to the long line of great “9s”.

Soil: Grapes from the Ulm vineyard, which lies on a very steep southern slope on the eastern part of the Nussberg, directly next to the Danube river. The soil consists of extremely calcareous shell-limestone, with limestone and a relatively small amount of clay underneath. Especially this part of the Nussberg is considered to be a remnant of a coral reef from the Tertiary period. Even today, masses of fossilized shells and snails in the white stones can be found.

Vineyard and Cellar: Since 2008, this vineyard has been cultivated according to biodynamic guidelines, with the final conversion-taking place with the 2011 harvest. This Wiener Gemischter Satz consists of 9 grape varieties – Weissburgunder, Neuburger, Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Sylvaner, Zierfandler, Rotgipfler, Traminer and Riesling – which were picked by hand and [with] the careful elimination of any botrytis grapes. Gentle pressing with a pneumatic winepress followed a 4-hour maceration period. Fermentation took place to about 75% in cooled steel tanks and another 25% in large old oak barrels. After maturing the wine for 10 months on the fine lees, the different tanks and barrels were put together and the wine was bottled in August 2019.

Contact

Weingut Wieninger

Stammersdorfer Str. 31

1210 Wien, Austria

Website: www.wieninger.at

Bibliography

Giles MacDonogh, Austria, New Wines from the Old World (Osterreichischer Agrarverlag, 1997), p.16.