Lugana DOC is a dry, occasionally sparkling, white wine made in north-east Italy from the Turbiana or Trebbiano di Lugana grape. Its production zone lies west of Soave, on the southernmost shores of Lake Garda between Desenzano and Pesciera, straddling the borders between two regions and two provinces, Brescia in Lombardy (‘Lombardia’) and Verona province in Veneto. ‘Though largely in Lombardy, and therefore geographically in the north-west, Lugana belongs stylistically to the Veronese [Verona area] wines, and thus in the north-east. It has more concentration and a finer scent than all but the very finest Soave,’ (David Gleave MW: 1989, p.89). Most is sold to tourists in summer.

The name: The Lugana DOC takes its name derives from Lugana di Sirmione, a locality in the municipality of Sirmione in the Province of Brescia.

Terroir: The production zone is influenced by Lake Garda which creates a “Mediterranean”mesoclimate via the tempering effect of the lake itself. The soils are rich in both clay and minerals.

Production: A four-fold jump in the area under vine from 2000 to 2020 (Decanter May 20 22)

Wine style: ‘Formerly a glamourous rarity, now a pleasant light dry white, scarcely distinguishable from an upper-class Soave,’ (Hugh Johnson: 1991, p.307). The wine is said to be round and crisp with a rich biscuity character and notes of citrus and white fruit. Luigi Veronelli, Italy’s most famous wine critic once said: “Drink your Lugana when is very young, you will enjoy its freshness. Drink you Lugana after two or three years and you will enjoy its completeness. Drink it after ten years and you will be amazed by its composed authoritativeness. Lugana wines, rare quality for white wines, have an extraordinary capacity to be recognized. You taste a Lugana and, if you are a good taster, you cannot forget it. A great painter is recognizable, and so is a musician: every time, with a work, you feel it’s his.”

Wines: The entry-level wine is the ‘normale’. Lugana Superiore DOC is made with lower yields to the normale and requires a minimum of 11.5 % of alcohol and 12 months ageing before release. Lugana Riserva dates from 2011 and must age for 24 months (ageing in oak is optional, 6 months in bottle before release). Lugana Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest) is also permitted. A  Lugana DOC Spumante is also made via the traditional method.

With food: Paired locally with lake trout or fresh-water fish like coregone.

Wineries

No certification: Ca’Maiol. | La Sansonina. | Pedassi Massimiliano. | Santa Sofia.

Bibliography

Richard Baudains, Decanter May 2020, ‘Lugana’, p.56-62