ColleMassari is an organic estate in the Montecucco DOC region of Tuscany. Its first vintage was 2002. It is the largest estate in the Montecucco DOC and the region’s biggest exporter.

Owner: Claudio Tipa and partners. A love for Tuscany and a strong passion for wines led Claudio Tipa, who is Sicilian by birth and Roman by adoption, and his sister Maria Iris Bertarelli to Montecucco’s hills. In 1999 they acquired and restored the ColleMassari castle, a fortress from the 13th century that was originally homestead of area nobility, and its vineyards. Claudio Tipa is a businessman connected with a Swiss pharmaceutical company. He was the first to head the Montecucco DOC. Surgical in terms of aquisitions.

The Tipa family also currently rents and has partially owns Podere Grattamacco in the Bolgheri zone since 2002 (Bolgheri’s first organic estate from 1997). The Tipa family bought Poggio di Sotto (west-south-west facing) in Montalcino in 2011 and in 2017 subsequently added Poggio di Sotto’s two neighbouring Montalcino estates on different sides of a hill which are Tenuta San Giorgio (south-east facing, they converted it to organics) and Podere Bellarina.

History: As discovered in Etruscan artifacts and Roman mosaics found around the ColleMassari estate, wine has been made here since very ancient times.

Staff: Manager: Giuliano Guerrini. Group oenologist: Luca Marrone (see contacts).

Vineyards: Today the estate has a total surface of 1.200 hectares, of which 120 hectares are vineyards (2017) and nearly 90 hectares are olive groves (three trees are even more than 900 years old). The rest is woodland and countryside. The estate has Monte Amiata to the west and further west is the Tuscan coast. It is largely surrounded by woodland so there there is no risk of spray drift from surrounding estates. The site is hilly, open and sunny and at an altitude of 200–400 metres asl. It is windy all day, every day. This helps with organic farming. The vineyards and olive groves estate were planted as organic from scratch (at purchase the existing vines had been conventionally farmed). Local organic winemaker Leonardo Salustri and agronomist-oenologist Maurizio Castelli advised on the original vineyard planting.

Grape varieties: Sangiovese is the main red wine grape, with lesser amounts of Ciliegiolo, Montepulciano plus a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. There is also Vermentino (planted by the founders) and a small amount of Greco di Todi (aka Pignoletto) for white wines. The Ciliegiolo provides notes of prune, and mint. It can be spicey too, even earthy.

Terroir: The Collemassari vineyards are clay-based with the presence of iron and tuffeau on the part facing Monte Amiata. The part facing west to the sea has more sand. Key single vineyards include the 50-years-old Sangiovese vines called Poggio Lombrone and in fact clones of this Sangiovese were planted subsequently at the winery to increase the vineyards; along with white Vermentino planted in 2000. Luca told me that the Sangiovese from Montecucco has a noticeably deeper than usual colour and notes of spice and I agree. This can be fruity or earthy, depending on the vintage or be tinged with menthol in a year like 2021.

Poggio Lombrone: The terroir is arenaria, so can be quick to ripen. Having old vines helps moderate that, especially with climate change. Being organic helps. Steadier vine growth. And the old vines need more bottle age and time to open in the glass.

Organic certification: 2002 Full organic status for the first time. | 2021 Still certified organic.

Organics: Luca Marrone says ‘organics helps because it gives grapes with stronger skins which help stave off disease if it rains.’

Viticulture: ‘In the run up to harvest the Vermentino bunches are kept shaded by leaves to slow the maturation down and only in the final phase of ripening in mid August or so are the Vermentino grapes exposed by leaf removal more fully to the sun. In this way Vermentino’s aromas (located in the skin) are preserved. In wetter years organics helps as the grape skins are thicker and more resistant to disease,’ Luca Marrone told me (Visit 2021). 

Climate change: Higher alcohol levels. More extreme weather events such as hail or drought. 2007 was very dry. The aim is to get even ripening for each terrroir or vineyard block.

Winery: Bio-architecture design. Very spacious. In the hill. Underground. Natural humidity. Cool. Cedar oak was chosen for the winery roof because this is a wood that discourages the micro-organisms that can promote mould. Gravity cellar, each step of the winemaking process takes place on it own level from grape reception, winemaking, ageing, bottling and storage. White wines ferment in stainless steel. Alcoholic fermentation for reds takes place mostly in stainless steel but can also be in wooden vats. As red wines are mainly Sangiovese-based the winemaking has been adapted to that. The reds age oak vats from either France or Slovenia (30-40hl) mainly. There are also oak tonneaux mainly for the complementary grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Ciliegiolo. Oak casks but as they make Sangiovese mainly tonneaux, not barriques. Their trials showed their Sangiovese was best aged in larger oak vats of French and Slovenian oak.

Winemaking: Month long harvest.

Vintage reports: 2016.

White wines

Montecucco DOC Vermentino, Irisse: Named after Maria Iris the sister of the owner as she and only drinks white wine (But she prefers the Melacce!). Around 90,000 bottles. Made from two central Italian, Mediterranean varieties that produce whites which can age. . It is unofficially the Riserva Vermentino. Innovative. Wanted to try something new. The owners knew Vermentino from Grattamacco. It likes the proximity of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It was Castelli who had the idea of making it partly from Grechetto di Todi as he knows its stamping ground of Umbria well. 85% Vermentino, 15% Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto. 20,000 bottles. Rich. Vermentino aged in oak. Great aging potential. An organic wine from still young vineyards located about 300 metres above sea level, on mainly sandstone soil. A unique blend of Vermentino and Grechetto di Todi, a typical grape from Umbria, a region Castelli knows well. Terroir: Ulysse is not mainly on arenaria but also has clay, flysch, (calcareous) marl. Vines at same 500m altitude but in non-contiguous spots so you get varied ripening times. This helps stagger harvest (you buy time) AND you get a wider range in the expression of Vermentino’s freshness and aromas. I ask Luca Marone his three words for this wine: Freshness, aromas and natural ease. (You get freshness and crispiness).

Winemaking: After the harvest, the fermentation is separate for the two grapes: Vermentino is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by an ageing of 12 months in 40 hl oak casks; while Grechetto is fermented and aged in oak. | 2019 14.5% alc. A combination of combinations in terms of grape variety, regional diversity, and not-least of winemaker that could have ended in a duck soup but in fact delivers the insouciance of a natural wine with the rigour of a contemporary modern one. There is a push and pull with the Vermentino delivering its customary smooth richness via its payload of rich, almost oily but layered yellow fruit, lightly creamy from lees contact, whilst the Grechetto di Todi provides its equally customary fresh lemony acidity and notes of aniseed, chamomile, and green apple. Tasting note: Riesling like aromas, but not like R on the palate as you get saltiness.

Montecucco DOC Vermentino, Le Melacce or Melacce: An organic wine from vineyards located about 300 metres above sea level with diverse sun orientation and soil composition. Sandstone soils alternate with marl, ferrous and limestone loamy soils as well as gravel deposits. In connection with this optimum micro-climate, these are ideal requirements for the cultivation of this particular type of vine. After a night of crio-maceration, the vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with temperature control where the wine is refined for 5 months. Wine style: Freshness, aroma, easy to enjoy. Lovely crispy texture. Can age too. Versatile, even in winter. Vivacity. Rich wine like a ballerina. Melacce has a drinking window bottling to five and even up to ten years Luca Marrone told me. | 2013 Bottled. | 2020 13.5% alc. This was a deliciously engaging white with yeasty savouriness and lively white lemony-orangey fruit allied to a floral whose inner vibrancy is manifested by a deliciously salty note which encourages you to take another sip. It is ready now (late 2021) but it has three or more years in the tank, if needed thanks to its pinpoint ripeness and acidity (Visit 17 Nov 2021).

Pink wines

Montecucco DOC Rosato, Grottolo: 20,000 bottles. Sangiovese grapes as a base, with the addition of Ciliegiolo and Montepulciano. Vinified in steel. At the end of alcoholic fermentation the wine is then transferred to steel vats for aging.

Red wines

Montecucco DOC Rosso 2020: Freshness, aroma, easy to enjoy. Lovely crispy texture. Can age too. Versatile, even in winter. Really clear, juicy, smooth and savoury. A rich wine like a ballerina.Vivacity. 13.5% alc. Tasted December 2022.

Montecucco DOC Rosso, Rigoleto: A Sangiovese ‘with an easy approach’, says the estate. A central Italian “daily” SuperTuscan red from Ciliegiolo, Sangiovese, Montepulciano for structure. Montepulciano gives colour but is not an easy grape. Ripens quickly. A battle. Sangiovese for freshness and Ciliegiolo for aroma (yields well), and pick it a bit late too. Spicey. Unique Mediterranean blend. Between Morelino di Scansano (daily wine) and Brunello (can age). Versatile wine. From five types of terroir: Arenaria, iron-rich clay (reddish), stony clay (flych), marine shells (stones). ‘It is a nicely smooth and charming wine, the fresh touch of the Sangiovese combined with red berries notes and a delicate spicy touch of black pepper. It is a ready to drink wine with an easy approach, a ripe and very well balanced expression of Sangiovese from the South of Tuscany, ‘ says the estate’s website. | 2019 13.5% alc. Lovely deep crisp robe. Red plum and raspberry, sappy fruit perhaps not quite knit and with somewhat drying tannins (11 Nov 2021). | 2019 23.5% alc. A demure Sangiovese.

Montecucco DOC Rosso Riserva, ColleMassari: The signature wine of ColleMassari: 2008 Bottled. | 2017 200% Sangiovese. 14.5 alc. Deep bright crimson. A very smooth Sangiovese whose elegant, mouthwatering fruit is very much to the fore. The wine’s well drilled tannins derive from both a sensible level of extraction during fermentation allied to sensitive oak ageing and pin point picking. Here the Sangiovese carries a lovely wild peony note to add to its undertow of smart red fruit, with plenty of savoury texture adding to its easy going tannins and fruit fluidity (11 Nov 2021).

Montecucco DOC Sangiovese Riserva, Poggio Lombrone: 2005. | 2006. | 2008 14.5% alc. Bizarre.  Hot until 10th September. Then it was wet which was followed by very cold weather which dried the rain (sic). Vine ripening slowed. Long harvest. Got very good phenolic ripeness. Everyone in the region thought it would be a poor year. 2008 showing well right now with nice balsamic notes. This is a real beauty from a stellar vintage no one expected. A cool spring reduced the potential 2008 crop. Summer was hot. Hot until 10th September. Then it was wet which was followed by very cold weather which dried the rain (sic). Vine ripening slowed. Long harvest. Harvesting was cold and clear allowing long hang time. Got very good phenolic ripeness. Everyone in the region thought it would be a poor year. The results were mouthwateringly juicy tannins, a feature of the best wines in this vintage. The Lombrone is understated, its rich silkiness contrasts with its sapidity, fluidity and poise. It is like a South Montalcino Brunello that was permitted a lighter oak regime. Drink Now–2025. More on this wine: This is a real beauty combining Sangiovese’s attributes of understated rich silkiness contrasted with its sapidity, fluidity and poise. It has sumptuous richness but is also light on its feet thanks to really mouthwateringly juicy tannins, a feature of the best wines in this vintage. It’s like a South Montalcino Brunello that was permitted to skip a non-sensical year of pre-bottling ageing. Probably the best red wine I have tried from Collemassari. Very Sangiovese but very Tuscan Sangiovese too meaning accessible Sangiovese that also just happens to be able to age if you so wish. 2008 showing well in late 2021 with nice balsamic notes. | 2009. | 2010. | 2011.

Montecucco DOCG Sangiovese Riserva, Poggio Lombrone: 15,000 bottles of Lombrone on average. Colle Massari has the oldest vineyard in the Montecucco DOC which is Lombrone, their cru wine made from Sangiovese. The vines date from 25 to 55 years old.”Poggio Lombrone is a powerful, vigorous and structured 100% Sangiovese (old vines) wine from vines at 300 metres above sea level in hilly soil rich in clay, tuff, limestone and marl. Its vinification differs from the other red wines via the use of aerobic fermentation in open tronconic vats. It is their red wine aimed to be on a par with Brunello of a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. | 2012 15% alc. 2012 Seemed to have been too hot a season for high quality. Pre-harvest there was a worry the wines would be too concentrated. With time they have maintained their freshness of fruit (eg. compared to 2011) and thus do not overwhelm you in terms of power. It is well balanced and has retained its vitality. The Mediterranian or balsamic side to the fruit is now starting to emerge as the wine gets to its peak. | 2015: 14.5% alc. Had a harder (hotter eg. July) summer than 2016. Super hot summer. Did have heavy rain in June. Balanced in the end. Drink: 20 years for the flagship. Like 2007. Menthol note for the flagship. My tasting note:  You get a light sensation of the dusty warmth that the 2015 vintage bestowed on these old Sangiovese vines in this wine. What you don’t get is jarring Sangiovese tannins that turn the wine angular from heat stress. This is a smooth ride fruit expression-wise with a mouthwatering finale, in an enigmatic wine whose only concession to the torrid weather is to leave a meek spice note in the aftertaste. | 2016 Best vintage ever in the 2000s. 2016 is like like 2006 for its freshness. More finesse and potential ageing than 2015. Warm but not oppresive. Very young still, needs time, half way through. Drink: 20 years for the flagship. ‘Manual crushing. Spontaneous fermentation in open wooden vats of 1,000 litres with manual punching or delestage 2-3 times a day. There is no need for temperature control during fermentation because the grapes are de-stemmed and not pressed at 18-20° C. The slow fermentation and the relatively small volumes do not develop excessive heat and this allows a gentler maceration of 2-3 weeks depending on the organoleptic evolution of the individual vat. Malolactic fermentation in big oak barrels. Aged in 40hl Slavonian oak barrels for at least 2-3 years depending on the vintage. 2016 spent 30 months in oak. Bottled on 10 September 2019. My tasting note: a very well put together red, its dark velvety and moreish fruit precise and characterful, very emphatic in its delivery of flavour and underlying texture, with plenty of airy, honeycombe-like layers. Seamless oak. You do not feel the15% alcohol shown on the label. Seamless oak (tasted Jan 2021). | 2017 Hot year.

Sweet wines

Montecucco Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice DOC, Scosciamonaca: 70% Sangiovese 30% Aleatico. The grapes are naturally dried for three months using the Appassimento method and then pressed. The concentrated must is then placed in a barrel containing a little wine from the previous year so as to activate fermentation. The wine then ages for 54 months in the oak barrel, before being bottled.

Other activities: 19ha of olive trees. Grappa ColleMassari. (14 months in barrel). Olive oil.

Contact

Castello di ColleMassari

Località Poggio la Commare

Poggi del Sasso (sic)

58040 Cinigiano (GR), Italy

Tel+39 0564 990498 | Website: www.collemassariwines.it/en/estates/castello-collemassari