Aglianico | Château Monty

Aglianico is a red wine grape, among the oldest in its native Italy where it is considered among Italy’s best red varieties, along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Despite its Greek name there are no substantive genetic links between Aglianico and Greek grape varieties. Aglianico del Vulture DOC must be 100% Aglianico whereas Taurasi DOCG and Aglianico del Taburno DOCG permit 0-5% other grapes.

Clones: A big range of clones. The VCR 2 clone from Campania produces bigger, darker black wines and is popular in the Irpinia area. Despite being a biotype, Aglianico del Vulture is still listed as a separate variety in Italy’s National Registry. Aglianico is not the same as Aglianicone or Aglianico di Napoli (aka Tronto).

Biotypes: The three main Aglianico biotypes take their names from the three areas they are associated with: Taurasi, Taburno and del Vulture. The Taurasi biotype has the smallest berries and is the least vigorous. The Taurasi DOCG sits at elevations up to 500m where large diurnal differences give extremely intense aromas. The wines are the most floral, distinguished by scents of red rose. The Taburno biotype has the biggest bunches and ripens earlier with the highest sugar and acid levels. The Taburno DOCG zone is cooler and wetter contributing to elevated acid levels. The wines show leather and tobacco notes. Finally, the del Vulture biotype expresses the most fruit and mineral concentration. The hot summer days in the Vulture zone give the richest, darkest fruit character with violet being a hallmark aroma of the wines. Note that most producers in Vulture grow all three biotypes.

Viticulture: Aglianico’s thick skin helps protect it from botrytis, useful for a slow and very late ripener which needs full maturity to soften high acid and tannin. It likes high altitudes of up to 600-700m. Steep mountain slopes give rise to Aglianico’s deepest wines. On its preferred volcanic soil Aglianico gives complex wines with smoky, spicy notes.

Specific styles: In Campania, Piedirosso brings Aglianico freshness and aroma. In Puglia, Primitivo gives Aglianico fruit and faster maturing wines. In Abruzzo and Molise, Aglianico is blended with Montepulciano. Note that while the DOCGs of Taurasi and Aglianico del Taburno allow up to 15% other grapes, Aglianico del Vulture DOC must be 100%.

Wine style: Mostly dry still wines. Floral aromas. Deep colour. Full-bodied, plenty of tannin and acidity. Can be tarry and angular when young, hence Aglianico may be blended with softening varieties such as Piedirosso in Campania for freshness and aroma, and Montepulciano in Abruzzo and Molise. In Puglia, Primitivo gives fruitier and faster maturing wines.

Bibliography

Oz Clarke, Oz Clarke Wine A-Z (Pavilion, 2015), p.24-25.