Viognier, white wine grape variety described as aromatic (see aromatic grape varieties) by Dr Ian D’Agata (2019). Robert Joseph (Wine Magazine: April 1996: p.55) speaks for most when he described Viognier as ‘a very tricky grape, but potentially worth the effort and price.’ Harry Eyres speaks of Viognier’s ‘sheer vinosity.’

Origins: ‘The Viognier grape may have come from Greece or Dalmatia, 2000 years ago…but its modern development took place in the northern Rhône appellations of Condrieu AOC, Château-Grillet AOC, and Côte Rotie AOC,’ (Harry Eyres: 1996, p.26-29).

Working with Viognier: To be at its best Viognier needs to be picked perfectly ripe as it quickly turns over-ripe. ‘Only at high ripeness does [Viognier] does the grape give its most fascinating aromas of honeysuckle, lychee, pear skin and musk and its special lush mouthfeel’ says Harry Eyres. Skin contact has to be carefully judged to avoid bitterness as does malolactic fermentation which can turn the wine buttery. It can be oak fermented and aged but again not to any excess. Harry Eyres says Marcel Guigal is strongly in favour and quotes Guigal who says ‘it gives extra finesse, and removes the hard green malic flavours which are obtrusive. It also makes the wine more stable.’

Tasting note: Peach, dried apricot, pear, and honey are typical flavours. Also white flowers. 

Wines: Château-Grillet AOC. | Condrieu AOC. | Côte Rôtie AOC.

Bibliography

Dr Ian d’Agata, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs (University of California Press, 2019).

Simon Woods, ‘Keeping the Peace’, Wine Magazine, April 1996, p.52-55.

Harry Eyres, ‘A La Mode’, Wine Magazine February 1996, p.26-29.