Genotypes (2): The two genotypes are Nebbiolo Lampia and Nebbiolo Rosé. Nebbiolo is known for its high intravarietal variability: out of 30 documented biotypes the most important are Nebbiolo Bolla (high-yielding and poor-quality), Nebbiolo Lampia (most dependable), Nebbiolo Michet (a virused form of Lampia that is low- yielding but gives higher quality harvest), which all originate from the Nebbiolo Lampia genotype. Clone CVT 308, derived from the Picotener (FR)/ Picotendro (IT) biotype of Valle d’Aosta has small bunches of smaller and darker berries. It produces very dark and aromatically muted wines when planted outside its natural home of north-western Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta.

Synonyms: Nebbiolo’s best known synonyms are Spanna (around Novara and Vercelli in Piedmont), Picotener (Valle d’Aosta) and Chiavennasca (Lombardy). Nebbiolo Rosé is distinct from but has a !rst-degree relationship with Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo di Dronero is a distinct variety otherwise known as Chatus. Negrera, Vespolina and Freisa are all closely related to Nebbiolo. The Nebbiolo of Sardinia is actually predominantly Dolcetto. (Look for IGP Colli del Limbara wines to try a Sardinian Nebbiolo.) See also Picotendro.

Viticulture: Nebbiolo is site-sensitive and vigorous, thus less fertile clay-limestone soil is ideal. Budding early and ripening very late, it is sensitive to spring frost and to autumn rains. Cluster management is recommended for quality production and plenty of sunlight and warmth is needed so south-exposed sites are traditionally considered to be the best.

Wine style: Medium colour intensity even with a garnet hue in youth, since unstable anthocyanins peonin and cyanin dominate. Nebbiolo is naturally high in tannins and acidity, making it age-worthy. Though some may think of Nebbiolo as giving aggressively tannic, tough wines, in reality the best should be perfumed, exuding notes of red rose, sour red cherry and sweet spices. The aroma of tar develops with bottle age.