Bombino Bianco is a white grape variety found in its native Italy (although some suggest Bombino Bianco arrived in Italy from Spain). Bonvino Bianco is a synonym used for Bombino Bianco in parts of the Latium (‘Lazio’) region of Italy. There were 1,229 ha/3,036 acres of it in southern Italy, mainly in Puglia in 2010 (OCW: 2015, p.899).
Bombino Bianco — was planted on
Where grown: “Bombino Bianco is found along the Adriatic coast from Abruzzo and in Northern Puglia,” says Ole Udsen (Radici del Sud, 13th June 2015). Bombino Bianco is found mainly in Foggia and Bari provinces in the Puglia region of Italy. Bombino Bianco is also grown in south-western Lazio where it is known as Ottonese, and in the Abruzzo region (where it is mainly used in blends) as well as Emilia-Romagna.
Bombino Bianco has often been confused with other varieties leading to mis-labelling of ‘Bombino Bianco’ wines. Research by José Vouillamoz shows that although Bombino Bianco is not a white mutation of the red Bombino Nero grape (also found in Puglia), DNA analysis suggests a possible close relationship. It is not yet known whether Bombino Bianco and Trebbiano Abruzzese are distinct varieties but both are unrelated to Trebbiano Toscano and Trebbiano di Soave (aka Verdicchio). Recent DNA parentage analysis has suggested that Bombino Bianco is a possible parent of both Impigno and Moscatello Selvatico from Puglia (Cipriani et al. 2010).
The name: Bombino bunches are said to look like a cuddly infant or ‘bambino’ in Italian. Others say Bombino or ‘small bomb’ relates to the shape of the bunches. Another theory is Bombino derives from ‘buon vino’ or ‘good wine’ in dialect, good in this sense may mean either wine quality or its ‘good’ – meaning copious – yields. Other synonyms include Pagadebit (‘debt payer’), Straccia Cambiale (‘rip up the invoices’), and Bonvino Bianco (‘good grape’) in Lazio.
In the vineyard: Bombino Bianco ripens late so may get hit by bad weather at harvest.
Wine style: Bombino Bianco has notable acidity levels, and so can be used for sparkling wines. Ole Udsen told me (at Radici del Sud, 13th June 2015) that Bombino Bianco ‘can have a slightly leafy greenish note, fairly neutral, very much in the Trebbiano Abruzzese mould. This means that, when balanced, it is a good conduit for terroir expression. It also has a high level of dry extract.’ This latter quality may account for why Bombino Bianco is said to have a creamy texture. Peach, aniseed, almonds and white flowers are other potential flavours.’
DOC wines: Castel del Monte DOC (Puglia). | Frascati DOC (Lazio). | Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo). | San Severo DOC (Puglia).
Bibliography
Italian Wine Unplugged (Positive Press, 2017), p.83-4.
Oxford Companion to Wine 4th edition ed. Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW (Oxford University Press, 2015).