Michael Gindl | Biodynamic wine grower in the Weinviertel region of Austria. The land has been in his family since 1807. Michael Gindl (born 1983) began making wine at his family estate in the Weinviertel while attending agricultural school in his teens. Inspired by the wines of his grandfather,
Biodiversity | The vineyards have 100% geen cover (cover crops). This attracts buzzards (buteos) because the sward attracts mice. The inter-rows are grazed by (in 2018) 20 sheep, 20 goats, 30 cows, plus chickens. They are also worked by six draft horses. The vine shoots are rolled over the top supporting wines rather than being timmed. This prevents side shoots growing lower down, creating shade and thus the risk of rot or unripeness in the fruiting zone. Other crops grown here include fruit, cereal crops and vegetables.
Certification | 2013 First vintage with full Demeter Biodynamic certification.
Winemaking | Hand picking. The biodiversity approach which Gindl takes in the vines results, not surprisingly, in very small berries. Spontaneous fermentation (no added yeast). Barrels from wood grown (both pedunculate oak and acacia) in the estate’s own forest, and are made locally.
Flora Cuvéè | Blend of Gelber Muskateller, Riesling and Scheurebe.
GRUNER VELTLINER, LITTLE BUTEO | From the first or earliest of three pickings through the loamier vineyard sites. 2017 Whole bunch pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and old oak. Nice apple flavours (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
GRUNER VELTLINER, BUTEO | From the second or middle of three pickings from vineyard sites on loess.
GRUNER VELTLINER, BUTEO 12 | From the third of three pickings through the vineyard, around 8 weeks after the Little Buteo was picked. From sites on loess. Made with skin contact, and non-reductive oak aging. 2015 12 months in acacia oak barrels. Beerlike, savoury (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
WHITE BESSI N.2 | Non vintage. Not tasted.
SOL | Named after the first documented vineyard in the town Hohenruppersdorf, in the 1300s. Blend of 60% Grüner Veltliner (1950s vines, loam) and 40% Weisserburgunder (sandier soil). Partly fermented on skins. Can be made from a mix of vintages.
NANU ROTBURGER | Not tasted.
RED BESSI N.3 | Non vintage. 80% Blauer Zweigelt, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12 months in clay amphora with stems. ‘I like ripe tannins from the stems,’ Michael told me. Then 18 months in old oak barrels. Bretty and a bit drying (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
Michael Gindl, Marktplatz 27, A-2223 Hohenruppersdorf, Austria / Tel+34 (0)664 41 36 449 / www.mgsol.at
Demeter Austria tasting 2018, Vienna 26th February.