Michael Gindl is a Biodynamic wine grower in Hohenruppersdorf in the Weinviertel region of Austria. The land has been in his family since 1807. Michael Gindl (born 1983) began making wine at his family estate while attending agricultural school in his teens, inspired by the wines of his grandfather,
Vineyards: 2017 10 hectares (24.7 acres). High vine density of 7,000-10,000 vines per hectare (2,834-4,050 vines per acre). Soils are loam and loess.
Soils and climate: “The soils are mainly comprised of loam and loess. The climate is continental with warm summers and cold winters. -25°C is not an exception. In recent years the low amount of precipitation has become a challenge to all winegrowers. Michael Gindl states, “When I was a child there was always snow and a tobogganing chute behind our house. Today’s children don’t have that anymore because we have scarcely any snow and overall very little rainfall. Our climate could better be compared with that of the Burgenland region than with the rest of the Weinviertel. It is more southerly.”
Biodiversity: The vineyards have 100% geen cover (cover crops). This attracts buzzards (buteos) because the sward attracts mice. The inter-rows are grazed by (in 2018) 20 sheep, 20 goats, 30 cows, plus chickens. They are also worked by six draft horses. The vine shoots are rolled over the top supporting wines rather than being trimmed. This prevents side shoots growing lower down, creating shade and thus the risk of rot or unripeness in the fruiting zone. Other crops grown here include fruit, cereal crops and vegetables.
Certification: 2013 First vintage with full Demeter Biodynamic certification.
Winemaking: Hand picking. The biodiversity approach which Gindl takes in the vines results, not surprisingly, in very small berries. Spontaneous fermentation (no added yeast). Barrels from wood grown (both pedunculate and acacia) in the estate’s own forest, and are made locally.
White wines
Flora Cuvéè: Blend of Gelber Muskateller, Riesling and Scheurebe (Sämling 88). Soil: Gravel with loess layer.
Grüner Veltliner, Little Buteo: The name Buteo is the academic name for buzzards, which arrive here around harvest time. From the first or earliest of three pickings through the loamier vineyard sites. 100% Grüner Veltliner Boden: Löss, Sandstein und Lehm Anbaumethode: Handlese in kleine Kisten. 2017 Whole bunch pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and old oak. Nice apple flavours (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
Grüner Veltliner, Buteo: From the second or middle of three pickings from vineyard sites on loess, loam and sandstone.
Grüner Veltliner, Buteo 12: From the third of three pickings through the vineyard, around 8 weeks after the Little Buteo was picked. From sites on loess. Made with skin contact, and non-reductive oak aging. 2015 12 months in acacia oak barrels. Beerlike, savoury (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
White Bessi N.2: Non vintage. Not tasted.
Sol: Named after the first documented vineyard in the town Hohenruppersdorf, in the 1300s. Blend of 60% Grüner Veltliner (1950s vines, loam) and 40% Weisserburgunder (sandier soil). Partly fermented on skins. Can be made from a mix of vintages.
Red wines
Nanu Rotburger: Not tasted.
Red Bessi N.3 From clay, sandstone and loess. Non vintage. 80% Blauer Zweigelt, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12 months in clay amphora with stems. ‘I like ripe tannins from the stems,’ Michael told me. Then 18 months in old oak barrels. Bretty and a bit drying (Demeter Austria tasting 2018).
Contact
Michael Gindl
Marktplatz 27
2223 Hohenruppersdorf, Austria
Tel+34 (0)664 41 36 449 | Website: www.mgsol.at
Bibliography
Demeter Austria tasting 2018, Vienna 26th February.