LA FABBRICA DI SAN MARTINO is a Biodynamic winery in the Colline Lucchesi DOC region of north-west Tuscany in Italy.

OWNER | Giovanna Tronci (speaks English). Her husband Giuseppe Ferrua (speaks English) was born in Colombia. Together they ran a restaurant in Lucca but found it too hard to concentrate on both the vineyard and its agritourism side, so gave the restaurant.

BACKGROUND | La Fabbrica di San Martino is located on the northwestern outskirts of Lucca, the Tuscan city famed for its medieval and Renaissance architecture. The manor house–now called Villa Sardi Tronci–was built for Count Lorenzo Sardi in 1735, but is based on the foundations of a rustic structure from the 1500’s. The farmer’s former house has been carefully restored and includes two apartments for rental.

THE NAME | Fabbrica is an Italian term for a place that produces both wine and olive oil.

VINEYARDS, POLYCULTURE | While technically within Lucca’s city limits, the 20 hectare (49.4 acres) property is completely surrounded by woods, effectively creating a unique site rich in bio-diversity. Cattle, donkeys, vegetables, fruits (particularly lemons), olives and vines co-exist together in harmony. In 2013, of the 20 hectares (49.4 acres) of land around 2 hectares (4.9 acres) are vineyards (down from 2.5 hectares/6.2 acres when I visited in 2005) and 6 hectares (14.8 acres) are olives (500 trees. Pendolino and Frantoiano varieties. Pressed by the Frantoio Lenzi in San Gennaro using a continuous press).

BIODYNAMICS, ORGANICS | 1996 Began organic practices. 2003 Began Biodynamic practices. The main vineyard sprays are Horn manure 500 and Horn silica 501.

CERTIFICATION | 2002 First vintage with full organic certification for everything: vineyards, olive oil and honey (acacia, yarrow; also propolis) and the agritourism. 2011 First vintage with full Demeter certification. | 2019 Member of Renaissance des Appellations.                                                    

SALES | 2012 80% exported.

WHITE WINES

IGT COSTA TOSCANA BIANCO | 2011 Vermentino, Malvasia Bianca and Trebbiano. Aged in tonneaux. Bit of acetaldehyde at Vinitaly 9th April 2013.

RED WINES

COLLINE LUCCHESI ROSSO, ARCIPRESSI | 2012 Old vines. Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo Nero, Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Moscatellone. Tannins are ripe and deep but needs air, firm spine, clean fruit at Vinitaly 9th April 2013. | 2016 Lovely old style tannin, well-shaped, savoury, genteel rusticity at the Demeter Austria tasting, Vienna 26th February 2018.

COLLINE LUCCHESI ROSSO, LA FABBRICA ROSSO | 2004 Will be 6,000 bottles. Vat sample, about to be botted. Mainly Sangiovese plus Syrah, Merlot and field-blended Canaiolo Nero, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo, Colorino and Moscatellone. 1950s vines. Guyot (cane) pruned (spur pruning to cordon is more usual here). Fermented in steel. Aged in 10hl French and Slavonian oak. Decent weight but a bit clumsy and needs air when tasted at Tenuta di Valgiano on Tues 22nd March 2005. | 2010 70% Sangiovese, 30% Canaiolo Nero, Colorino and Ciliegiolo. Nice and wild, alcohol and bit heavy though, soft core (tasted at Vinitaly 9th April 2013). | 2012 Savoury at the Demeter Austria tasting, Vienna 26th February 2018.       

RUBINO | 100% Sangiovese. Rarely made and sold in magnum only. 2009 Was released in 2009.

CONTACT

La Fabbrica di San Martino, Via Pieve S. Stefano, 2511 / I-55100 San Martino in Vignale (LU = Lucca), Italy / Tel+39 0583.394284 / Website www.fabbricadisanmartino.it