Chianti Classico DOCG 2010 vintage: See Chianti Classico DOCG.

In a nutshell: ‘Cool and rainy spring; sunny and dry end of June, early July; cool rest of season,’ (Nesto & Savino, 2016, p.190). The 2010 Chianti Classico growing season got off to a tricky start but ultimately produced really classic wines. There were two key factors.

Difficult spring: First, a difficult spring in some areas reduced the potential crop, providing the pre-conditions for concentrated flavours. This was due to poor fruit set (‘allegagione non abondante’) in Chianti Classico. This proved to be a blessing in that a bigger load of fruit may not have fully ripened, given the subsequent growing season.

Lack of sunlight: Michael Schmelzer of Monte Bernardi reported an ‘incredible lack of sunlight that lasted from winter [which was very cold] through to mid spring, which was cool and somewhat wet. The lack of sunlight also delayed the start of the vine growth by as much as three weeks, especially in our older vineyards and poor sunlight exposure in the early season produced reduced cluster formations (bunches shorter in length and width) than in a typical year. The bunches were also missing their winged lobe (or ‘ali’) off the main bunch which is classic to Sangiovese, and the berries were smaller and fewer.’

Summer, Autumn: However, summer and autumn weather was much better, with a hot July which accelerated vine growth. The fruit ripened well given the late start (especially if yields had been reduced by the lack of early season sunlight, mentioned above). Smaller than usual berries and looser bunches also reduced the potential for grey rot, allowing growers to wait. Harvest took place from mid- to late-September and into October in good conditions with warm and dry days and cool nights.

Growing season: The 2010 growing season was hot, with a hot summer, normal if slow in terms of ripening, Mauricio Castelli told me. There was also rain which was positive as it minimised heat stress. And there were plenty of overcast days. Light helps develop aroma and Tuscany usually gets more intense summer sun than Romagna. But 2010 was not the sunniest vintage.

Ripening: The 15-25 day ripening period was normal. Normal vinification. 15-20 day maceration. Wines with good colour, bright flavours, OK sugars. Although ripening was slow in autumn warm days and cool nights made for wines with precise fruit flavours and appealing but not over-bearing depth. Growers could pick methodically according to flavour (not just sugar or potential alcohol) ripeness, whilst also eliminating all stems and any sub-standard berries. They had the chance to make rich wines with an uplifting inner crunch. In the main the tannins had enough texture to provide a robust but agreeably smooth mouthfeel. This was balanced by fruit with the necessary density to create absolutely classically Tuscan reds: firm but not aggressive, rich and savoury. In short, everything you’d hope for from a ‘long hang time’ vintage.

Wine style: ‘Fruit that shines even if the sun did not always’ is my way of describing 2010 in Chianti Classico. Maurizio Castelli told me ‘there were some really exceptional Sangiovese wines with perfectly ripe ripe, silky tannins, with the capacity to age. Attentive growers did really well, and made bright wines that shone. Those who over-cropped did less well in terms of overall consistent ripeness.’

Andrew Jefford summed up the 2010 wines at a Decanter tasting in 2018 (with Susan Hulme MW and myself), as ‘terrific and in great shape, almost a decade down the line.’ Overall we collectively felt that the 2010 Chianti Classicos we rated as ‘outstanding’ are ‘drinking beautifully now,’ in Susan Hulme MW’s words and will hold into the mid-2020s at least.

On the role, good or bad, of French grapes in Chianti Classico (up to 20% non-Sangiovese grapes are allowed) Andrew Jefford said “I have to say very honestly that many of the 2010 wines with a percentage of French grapes tasted delicious, and often tasted less ‘severe’ and ‘confronting’ than the pure Tuscans.”

Overall, the 2010 Chianti Classico wines are “showing really well and there is great consistency overall. The wines are well-structured with good intensity and very good concentration but without being heavy,’ said Susan Hulme MW.

Stephen Brook: In his write-up for a ‘Chianti Classico 2010: Top Levels’ panel tasting’ published in the August 2014 issue of Decanter Stephen Brook asked if 2010 was ‘a truly great vintage in Chianti? Most producers would say yes, but it’s not a view that’s uniformly held’. The year began with a cold winter and a cool, soggy spring. Conditions improved greatly by June, and July was hot, but the rest of the summer was cooler than usual, so ripening was slow. Late september brought rain and disease, which continued into early October. There was considerable rot during harvest, and much of the crop had to be discarded. Lower vineyards suffered more than better-ventilated higher sites. Disease led to a drop in average production by around 20%. Growers had to make choices before harvest: to pick a bit too early and accept the possibility that not all the fruit was optimally ripe, or to wait for perfection, while risking further rot and disease. Those knife-edge conditions at harvest endowed the wines with fine acidity and freshness. They mostly lack the lushness and high alcohols of many 2009s, although the 2010s are far from underpowered. Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi acclaims the wines’ rich fruitiness, allied to admirable concentration and a muscular structure. Most agree that the wines’ fine acidity will contribute to their ageing potential. They also tend to have lower alcohol than the super-ripe 2009s. I am an admirer of the 2010 vintage, though perhaps it is not as consistently fine and enjoyable as the 2009s. There will be some disappointments.’

2010: Growing season

Michael Schmelzer of Monte Bernardi reported an ‘incredible lack of sunlight that lasted from winter [which was very cold] through to mid spring, which was cool and somewhat wet. The lack of sunlight also delayed the start of the vine growth by as much as three weeks, especially in our older vineyards and poor sunlight exposure in the early season produced reduced cluster formations (bunches shorter in length and width) than in a typical year. The bunches were also missing their winged lobe (or ‘ali’) off the main bunch which is classic to Sangiovese, and the berries were smaller and fewer.’ However, summer and autumn weather was much better, with a hot July which accelerated vine growth. The fruit ripened well given the late start (especially if yields had been reduced by the lack of early season sunlight, mentioned above). Smaller than usual berries and looser bunches also reduced the potential for grey rot, allowing growers to wait. Harvest took place from mid- to late-September and into October in good conditions with warm and dry days and cool nights.

2010: ‘The 2009 and 2010 vintages are two of the greatest ever (with caveats) for Chianti Classico and central Tuscany. The two growing seasons differed markedly from each other. In general, the warmer 2009 vintage yielded wines that are more exotic, riper and higher in alcohol. That said, please note that the cooler microclimates tended to suffer in 2010, with some wines, such as those of Gaiole, marked by green and vegetal streaks,’ (Ian D’Agata, Vinous, Sept 2014).

2010: Wine quality ‘Not many Riservas made in 2010, which was a little under-ripe in some places and arguably more of an annata vintage. Despite the slight edginess, it is a vintage with authentic aromas and real Sangiovese grip. A vintage one could see stylistic changes [less oak, less French varietal influence] under way in the region,’ says Richard Baudains (2016, p59). The 2010 Chianti Classico ‘is shaping up to be a great vintage, perhaps one of the greatest. It was a cold year, with an irregular flowering that lowered yields, and a very late harvest. The wines possess stunning depth, well-delineated aromatics and massive structure. If I had to draw comparisons with recent years, I would say the 2010s have the aromatics of 2004, the fruit density of 2007 and the structure of 2006′, says Antonio Galloni in ‘Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites’ (Vinous). In my report for the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards (for which I was Tuscany Chair) I wrote that ‘the cooler, less hyped 2010 Chianti Classico vintage should attract those looking for perfumed reds with savoury elegance.’

2010 Referring to Isole e Olena its UK importer Liberty Wines in London wrote, ‘following a cold and wet spring, summer did not arrive until the beginning of July when a short-lasting heat wave kicked in before more rain and cool weather in August. As a result, in September maturation was late. Paolo De Marchi feared botrytis would prevent the grapes from maturing properly. Fortunately, the higher vineyards benefited from good weather in September and October. The harvest was later than usual, yield was average and the wines are complex and aromatic with good acidity. After crushing, the must was fermented on the skins for 21-28 days at 30-32°C, with delestage and pumping over twice a day to give wines of good colour and soft tannins. The maceration tank was emptied of fermenting must, the cap allowed to dry out for two to three hours and then the must poured back over the cap. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was racked into barrels. The wine was 100% barrel-aged, a third in new French and American oak (only 5% of total), a third in one year old oak and the remaining third was put into two year old oak. The wine remained in barrel for 18 months and then matured in bottle before release.’