Owner | Fabio Marchionni.
Background | Fabio Marchionni came from a hardscrabble, hands-on farming family who grew cereal crops and had a small vineyard. He took over the family vineyards from his father in 1998, having graduated from the oenology school in Ancona, and was organic from start [see certification, below]. He trained in Alsace (Dambach-la-Ville) and apprenticed in Germany (at Weingut Salwey on the Kaiserstuhl and at the organic Weingut Zähringer in Heitersheim under Paulin Köpfer, one of Germany’s leading organic wine experts). Fabio also learnt about sparkling wine from Mathieu Kauffmann (ex-Bollinger). Fabio started with 3ha of rented vines in what was a garage operation with very little budget. Despite working in Alsace Fabio chooses not to make a cru wine but looks for vintage differences in terms of what gets picked when.
Vineyards | 3.5-ha of Verdicchio di Matelica. 420m. Stoney, compact sand and clay in subsoil = OK for hot years; loam too. Prunes for low yields.
Organics | Builds organic matter via natural grassing and cover crops. Sulfur, bentonite, silicates, and algae are used to reduce reliance on copper-based sprays.
Organic certification | 1998 First vintage with full organic certification.
Winemaking | Hand picked. No MLF.
Verdicchio di Matelica Spumante Extra Brut | From 1.5 hectare (3.7 acres). Planted 1988. 420 meters (about 1,400 feet) above sea level. North-facing. 100% Verdicchio, from Matelica vines (mass selections). Soil: a mixture of sand, loam, and clay, rich in limestone. Bilateral Guyot and double arched cordon. Hand picked into small boxes to keep the fruit intact, about 2 weeks before the harvest for the regular Verdicchio, so normally the Spumante is picked in early September. Soft pressing, slow fermentation at low temperature. Left on the lees for 4 months in stainless steel. Vinification of sparkling wine: the base wine is bottled with yeast and 24g/bottle sugar in May following the vintage. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, with the bottles racked in the classic ‘pupitres,’ as in Champagne, then the bottles are disgorged about 18 months later and re-corked, so as to leave the wine clear and sparkling (about 4 bar after disgorging). | 2013 6,000 bottles of 75 cl. Alcohol: 13% vol. Total Acidity: 8.8 g/L. Volatile Acidity: 0.29 g/L. Residual Sugar: 5g/l. Dryytract: 21.10 g/L . Total SO2: 50 g/L. Pressure 4 bars. Second vintage. 12.5%. 18m on lees. Classic method. No MLF. This has lovely fruit and freshness and clarity. Very nice. Lemon, beautiful texture. Fabio says he is not happy with the fizz or the RS – I think this is stunning on Saturday 03rd September 2016 at the Palazzo Honorati-Carotti in Jesi.
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC, Collestefano | Collestefano makes Verdicchio which tastes ‘like a dry Mosel Riesling’ (D’Agata, I: 2014, p.465-468). ‘The grapes are hand picked in 30 kg boxes. Whole bunch pressed. Cool ferment in small stainless steel tanks (10 to 20 hl). No MLF. Bottling is in May the following year. | 2007 13%. Lovely acidity. Really zippy, sherbett-like but lemon citrus is clear and delicate. Very good indeed on Sunday 04th September 2016 at the Palazzo Honorati-Carotti in Jesi. | 2015 12.5% Wonderful wine. Elegant, bright, clean, fantastic. Lovely, fantastic. Bone dry. Low malic. Really clear and crunchy but textured on Saturday 03rd September 2016 at the Palazzo Honorati-Carotti in Jesi.
Loc. Colle Stefano
Via Collestefano n. 3 | I-62022 Castelraimondo (MC = Macerata), Marche, Italy
Tel+39 0737.640439 | www.collestefano.com
Doug Wregg, Caves de Pyrène list 2014-2015.