Cannonau, or Canonao is the name used on the Italian island of Sardinia (‘Sardegna’) for its signature grape, aka France’s Grenache Noir and Spain’s Garnacha. Cannonau di Sardegna DOC is the island’s biggest production wine.

Origins: The vast genetic diversity of the Cannonau planted in Italy versus the genetic similarity of Spanish Garnacha suggest that Cannonau originates from Italy. The latest research supports this theory, the alternative being Cannonau arrived in Sardinia from Spain when Sardinia was under Aragónese rule, from 1297–1713).

Biotypes: In general, various biotypes of Cannonau can be found across Sardinia and Italy. Sicily and Tuscany’s Alicante, Umbria’s Gamay Perugino, Veneto’s Tai Rosso (Past errors by nurseries have caused a proliferation of the lower-quality Tai Rosso biotypes) and Liguria’s Granaccia (or Gruarnaccia) are all biotypes of Cannonau. Despite their identical genetics, they do not look and behave in an identical way (Italian Wine Unplugged, 2017, p.88). This contrasts with the (morphological and behavioural) similarity of Spanish Garnacha.

Terroir: ‘A high proportion of the grapes are grown on the east of the island,’ (Oxford Companion, 2006, p.134). Cannonau seems to prefer sandy soils with granite breakdowns (Italian Wine Unplugged, 2017, p.88).

Vineyard area in Italy: ‘The variety has lost ground [eg. in the above-mentioned Cannonau di Sardegna DOC] since the mid 1990s, partly because as a bush vine it is low-yielding and expensive to cultivate,’ (Oxford Companion, 2006, p.134). | 2000 About 6,300 ha/15,600 acres of Cannonau were recorded in the Italian vine census of 2000 (Oxford Companion 2006, p.134). | 2010 5,422 ha (13,400 acres) (Oxford Companion 2015, p.138).

Wines from Italy: Sardinia: Cannonau di Sardegna DOC with three noteworthy subzones: Oliena (central Sardinia), Jerzu (east-central Sardinia) and Capo Ferrato (southeastern Sardinia). Umbria: Colli del Trasimeno DOC. Veneto: Colli Berici DOC (specifically the subzone of Barbarano).

Wine styles: Due to its  Cannonau’s lack of anthocyanins give pale to medium colour intensity wines, even when young. Aromas of red berries, floral and herbal notes dominate and depending on the region and the associated biotype, the structure and fruit profile vary. For example, those made in Sardinia and Veneto tend to be fruitier and more intense than those made in Umbria.

Typical blending partners: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Food pairings: Cannonau is said to pair well with bitter chocolate.

Bibliography

Doug Wregg, Les Caves de Pyrène list (July 2011).

Ian D’Agata, Native Wine Grapes of Italy (University of California Press, 2014 pp.35, 45, 225-29.

The Oxford Companion to Wine 3rd edition ed. Jancis Robinson MW (Oxford University Press, 2006) p.134.

The Oxford Companion to Wine 4th edition ed. Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW (Oxford University Press, 2015), p.138.