BOLGHERI DOC, region south of Leghorn (‘Livorno’) and the Montescudaio DOC, on the Tyrrhenian coast in Tuscany, Italy. When the DOC was created in 1983 it initially recognised only white and pink wines. This was despite the fact that Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta had planted Cabernet Sauvignon here in the 1940s at San Guido, his private estate, naming the wine Sassicaia, a wine destined initially for home consumption. The Bolgheri DOC rules were finally amended, in 1994 (see below for the detail). In 1996 Angelo Gaja bought land in Bolgheri for his Ca’Marcanda estate.

PRODUCTION ZONE | The Bolgheri DOC is named after the locality (‘frazione‘) of Bolgheri which is part of the township (‘comune’) of Castagneto Carducci in the province of Livorno. Grapes for Bolgheri DOC wines must be produced within the administrative territory of the municipality of of Castagneto Carducci (land west of the s. s. Aurelia is excluded). The area is found within the northern section of the Maremma (the Alta Maremma) which is marketed as the Costa degli Etruschi or Etruscan Coast. On a clear day one can see Bastia on the Cap Corse opposite, whilst nearby the now ruined tower of Donoratico dates from the C9th when it was built by the counts of Donoratico, the Gheradesca family, to defend the coast from incursions by the Saracens, and the enemies of the republic of Pisa. It was partially destroyed by Alfonso of Aragon when he invaded the Maremma in the middle of the C15th; and Ugolino Gherardesca was starved to death here with his sons and nephews, as described by Dante in canto 33 of the ‘Inferno’.

BEFORE WINE | It is hard to imagine Bolgheri ‘had been ‘practically abandoned by farmers at the turn of the [20th] century because it was believed it had ‘mal aria’ or bad air,’ (Susan Low: Oct 1993). It was always considered better for cattle-breeding and arable farming than for wine. However despite the success of Sassicaia Rosemary George says she remembers visiting the area in the late 1980s when there were just two producers, Sassicaia and Pier Mario and Paola Cavallari of Collemassari’s Grattamacco (first vintage 1982), while a third, [Ludovico Antinori’s] Ornellaia, was little more than a building site,’ (Rosemary George, 2001, p.255). Eventually wines like the aforementioned Grattamacco and Ornellaia (first vintage 1985), plus Paleo (from Le Macchiole), Guado al Tasso and later agronomist Michele Satta’s Piastraia found favour in the USA in particular.

VINEYARD AREA | 1994 100ha. | 2000 Around 250 ha (618 acres). | 2004 900ha of vines. | 2010 1,000 ha (2,470 acres) with 50 wine estates.

TERROIR | Unlike Bordeaux, vintages in Bolgheri tend to be steady, making it a good place to invest; and picking can be ahead of central Tuscany by one to two weeks. The proximity to the sea gives a more temperate climate than that found in the central Tuscan hills, resulting in grapes that ripen earlier, often before the autumn rains arrive (OCW: 2015, p89 by Walter Speller). The climate is dry, with low rainfall and cool/mild winds from the sea close by. The island of Elba creates a wind channel so there are always breezes here, although the hills form an amphitheatre protecting the vineyards. There can be big day-night temperature swings it seems. Hillside vineyards are considered too drought-prone (although Pier Mario Cavallari at Grattamacco has planted a vineyard in the hills; and there are others). Lower-lying vineyards on sandy clay are better for water retention, and are rich in minerals, especially so where soil colour is red which shows the presence of manganese.

BIODIVERSITY | Bolgheri is home to Italy’s largest bird sanctuary (2,000ha of woodland, scrub (macchia), marshland and coastal terrain). A sand-dune and oasis with pine forests managed by the WWF is home to flocks of migratory water birds between November and May. Bolgheri is also famous for its long avenue of cypress trees, which featured in ‘Davanti a San Guido’, a poem by Giosuè Carducci. At the end of this road lies the Oratorio di San Guido, a six-sided building from 1703 commemorating a Gheradesca ancestor, Guido, who was a hermit in the C12th. This is home to the Tenuta San Guido from which Sassicaia, the wine which put Bolgheri on the map in the 1970s and 1980s (see file), originates.

CASTLES | The Castle of Bolgheri has been documented since the 8th century under the Counts della Gherardesca, but was on a different site to where it is found today, having been reconstructed after Emperor Maximilian’s German soldiers razed it in 1496. From the beginning of the 18th century under Count Simone rebuilt it in a new location

POETS | From 1838 and 1848 the poet Giosue Carducci lived in Bolgheri. His famous poem called ‘Davanti San Guido’ made the road between Bolgheri and the Via Aurelia famous. The road, near the octagonal chapel of St Vitus which was built in 1703, is flanked by a line of cypress trees almost 3 miles (5km) long.

WINES

The original DOC rules from 1984 did not include rules for red wines, only for white and pink wines. Thus red wines, despite their renown, were sold a ‘vino da tavola’. In 1994 red wines were given the Bolgheri Rosso DOC, whilst Sassicaia became the first Italian estate with its own DOC by being giving its own Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC.

BOLGHERI BIANCO DOCFrom Trebbiano Toscano, Vermentino, Sauvignon plus other white varieties. Varietal Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino require a minimum 85% of the named varietal. Vermentino ripens more slowly here than Sauvignon (say Collemassari). Vin Santo can also be made. At Castello d’Albola on Tuesday 05th May 2015 Stefano Ferrante said the reason Petit Manseng was grown in Bolgheri was that like Falanghina (which see) it has low levels of malic acid, but high levels of tartaric, meaning Petit Manseng can do MLF because if it does its tartaric acid will stop it tasting flabby. See also his comments on Greco.

BOLGHERI BIANCO DOC | 0-70% Vermentino, 0-40% Sauvignon Blanc, 0-40% Trebbiano Toscano, 0-30% white grapes authorised in Tuscany.

BOLGHERI SAUVIGNON DOC | 0-85% Sauvignon Blanc, 0-15% white grapes authorised in Tuscany.

BOLGHERI VERMENTINO DOC | 0-85% Vermentino, 0-15% white grapes authorised in Tuscany.

BOLGHERI ROSATO DOC | 100% Sangiovese is forbidden. Cabernet Sauvignon must comprise 10% minimum. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese are allowed. Up to 30% each of Syrah and/or Petit Verdot are allowed.

BOLGHERI ROSSO & SUPERIORE DOC | 0-100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 0-100% Merlot, 0-100% Cabernet Franc, 0-50% Sangiovese, 0-50% Syrah, 0-50%, 0-30% red grapes authorised in Tuscany. The wines are often barrel-aged Bordeaux blends without any Sangiovese. The Rosso must age 10 months and Superiore 24 before release. No oak ageing is required for either.

WINERIES

Certified organic | Poggio al Tesoro.

No certification | Aia Vecchia. | Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards. | Ca’Marcanda. | Caccia al Piano 1868. | Campo alla Sughera. | Campo alle Comete. | Castello di Bolgheri. | Giovanni Chiappini. | Michele Satta. | Ornellaia. | Podere Sapaio. | Tenuta Le Colonne. | Tenuta Meraviglia.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Nicolas Belfrage MW, From Brunello to Zibibbo: The Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy (London, 2001)